Process for making collars.



T. KLEIN.

PROCESS FOR MAKING GOLLARS.

APPLICATION FILED JULY 7, 1910.

999,503. I Patented Augn l, 1911.

COLUMBIA PLANOuRAPl-l cm. WASHINGTON, n. c.

UNITED %TAT% PTE'I FFIQE.

THEOBALD KLEIN, OF CINCINNATI, OHIO, ASSIGNOR OF ONE-HALF TO NICHOLAS DIEI-IL, OF CINCINNATI, OHIO.

PROCESS FOR MAKING COLLAR-S.

Application filed July 7, 1910.

To all whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, THEOBALD KLEIN, a citizen of the United States, residing at Cincinnati, in the county of Hamilton and State of Ohio, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Processes for Making Collars, of which the following is a specification.

My invention relates to the process of making coat collars, whereby the marginal edge of the under collar layer of cloth is stitched to the outer collar layer without lap seaming and presenting the collar under side in what is termed custom finish The object of my invention is to produce a coat collar having the appearance of the general hand-made custom finish, but in which the outer lining or under layer is stitched to the outer collar layer by ma chine, and preferably, in which said outer lining is not provided with a lap, and further, in which the process renders the production of a completely machine sewed collar, a material saving of time and produces a more highly desirable finish.

Various steps of the process are illustrated in the accompanying drawings and the description thereof forms a part of this specification, in which Figure l is a plan View of the under side of a finished collar in a condition ready to be secured to the coat. Fig. 2 is a plan view of the outer and under layers of cloth with the under layer upon the outer in the initial or first step of the process after the same have been out of the desired shape. Fig. 8 is a plan View of the several layers of cloth in position for the stitching operation and with the first run of stitches completedv is a detail elevation illustrating a step in the process in that of stitching the lapel edge of the collar. Fig. 5 1s a section on line :0, 512, Fig. l. Fig. 6 is a section on line 10, to, Fig. l.

A collar constructed under the method as herein described, enables the production of an entirely .iachine-sewed collar, presenting a custom finish of higher grade, quickly made and a saving of material and in consequence at a considerable reduction in 'cost.

1 represents the outer collar layer cut in general outline for a particular design or style, substantially the same as under the common methods of making coat collars.

2 represents the under collar layer out to Specification of Letters Patent.

Patented Aug. it, 1911.

Serial No. 570,846.

a corresponding outline relatively with the outer layer, except that no allowance is made for a lap along the edges 2-3, l, and 5.

The exposed side a of the outer layer is turned up, when the exposed side 7) of the inner or under collar layer is placed thereon with the two exposed faces against each other, as illustrated in Fig. 2, allowing a marginal lap edge to project beyond the three edges 3, l, and 5. The outline of the under collar is then traced upon the outer collar layer with chalk and center marked at G, coincident with the central seam of the under collar.

The under collar may be provided in the well-known manner with stil'l'ening material and formed in two sections, stitched to gether along a central line of scam, with the under collar and stiffening stitched together, with a series of cross stitching com mon in the art, primarily as illustrated at 7, Fig. l.

The under collar is preferably notched at 8, 9, and the outer layer coincidently marked at these points; these points determining a limit for the collar edge stitching operations.

After the tracing operation, the under collar layer is turned over, as shown in Fi 3, with the central seam of the under layer and center mark upon the outer layer, registering, and with the edge a of the under layer extended along the chalk line of the outer layer and temporarily pinned to retain the parts in position.

-With the parts in the position shown in Fig. 3, they are presented, preferably to a cross-stitch sewing machine of commercial. type, in a direction preferably from the center mark toward the notch 9, along the raw edge of the under layer, after which, with the same stitch the second half sewed from notch 8 to the central line. It is obvious, however, that this stitching can commence at one notch and extend to the other.

If no marginal exposed line of stitches is desired upon the collar, a line of stitches is run in rear of the stitched edge of the under layer and through the marginal flap of the outer layer, as illustrated at 10, Fig. 3. The under layer is then brought back to occupy the position described for marking, by swinging said layer backward upon the exposed face of the outer layer, when a line of stitches 11, preferably cross stitching, is

run along the lapel edges of the layers, one side thereof is illustrated in Fig. 4. The stitching commences at the notches 8 and 9 and extends the entire length of these edges. The collar is then turned, so as to bring the exposed surfaces of each layer outward, after which it may be pressed, presenting a finished collar with the cross stitching ex posed only along the collar edge of the under layer. If, however, it is desired to have a marginal line of exposed stitching, the same is had by running a line of stitches around the lapel and collar edges, through both layers in their turned or completed condition. By this method of making a collar, the double lap thickness of material is obviated, which had a tendency to pro duce a beaded or raised edge which required considerable pressing to partially reduce it, and further, by cutting away the surplus material at the corners of the collar and lapel edges, with a rounding or curved cut 12, a smooth finish can be had, avoiding the puckering or tucking of material at these points, and in which a round or square edge can be produced equally as convenient.

To enable the artisan to apply this invention to practice without following the reference letters of the drawings, the following description will suflice :The marginal edge of the unexposed side of the under collar piece is laid upon the corresponding marginal edge of the exposed side of the outer collar piece and secured thereto by a line of cross stitches, the under piece is then laid upon the outer piece with the exposed sides lying one upon theother and the marginal lapel edges are secured together by a line of machine cross stitches, the pieces thus united are inverted to bring the exposed sides outermost and the two sets of cross stitches thus form a continuous seam from end to end of the collar, there being only three thicknesses of material at the oint.

From the foregoing description and from the drawings, it will be seen that the two layers in the process of stitching are united without lapping the marginal edge of any of the layers for either the collar or the lapel edges, and with the one presenting a guide for stitching. This insures a smooth seam and enables raw edge stitching with a commercial sewing machine.

Having described my claim 1. The method of producing a collar, which consists in uniting under and outer layers of cloth of predetermined outline, presenting the exposed faces against each other, placing a mark of outline of the under layer upon the outer layer with centering and collar edge limit of stitching marks,

invention, I

then placing the edge of the under layer along said collar edge mark with exposed faces of both layers upward, applying a line of machine cross stitches along such edge of under layer, securing the two layers, then bringing the exposed faces together one upon the other, securing the same by a line of lapel edge stitching, then turning the collar, bringing the exposed faces outward, V

substantially as described.

2. The method of producing a collar which consists in uniting two layers of cloth, each cut to a predetermined outline, forming outer and under collar layers with each having an exposed face, with collar and lapel edges, presenting the collar edge of the under layers, exposed face upward, upon the exposed face of the outer layer along its marginal collar edge, and securing the same together by a line of machine cross stitches, then bringing the exposed face of the under layer upon the exposed face of the outer layer, and securing the same together along the lapel edges by a line of machine cross stitches, then turning the layer to bring the exposed faces of both layers outward, substantially as described.

3. The herein described method of forming a collar seam, which consists in placing the marginal edge of the unexposed side of the under collar piece upon the corresponding marginal edge of the exposed side of the outer collar piece, securing them by a line of machine cross stitches, then bringing the exposed sides of the outer and under pieces together and securing the lapel edges to gether in this position by a line of machine cross stitches, and then turning the side piece to bring the exposed surface outermost.

l. The method of producing a collar in uniting two layers of cloth, an outer and an under, one cut to marginal outline of the finished part, presenting said out layer outer face upward upon the outer face of the outer layer approximately coincident with their marginal collar edges, securing them by a line of cross-stitching along the marginal edge of the cut layer, then folding the layers, to bring their outer faces together, securing the lapel edges along the marginal lapel edge of the under layer, then turning the layers to bring the reverse faces to gether, whereby the collar is formed without lapping in the stitching operation and of correct outline.

In testimony whereof, I have hereunto set my hand.

THEOBALD KLEIN. Witnesses:

OLIVER-B. KAISER, EMMA SPENER.

Copies of this patent may be obtained for five cents each, by addressing the Commissioner of Patents,

' Washington, I). C. 

